wood burning stoves

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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby Tracker » Tue Jun 07, 2011 5:52 pm

.
Not much to add, other than wait for the fire to be at it's hottest and feel the outside of the pipe insulation..
Is it warm..?
I found that my foam rubber was slightly warm, and so got another size foam, split it and then stuck it over the existing and Duct-Taped it on..
The result was no-detectable warmth.
I think I saw 10 Mtrs mentioned... That's a 20Mtr heat run.. A fair potential for loss ???
..
.
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby Gordon-Loomberah » Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:00 pm

Is the pipe pointing upwards all the way over that ~10m run, ie no chance of air locks preventing thermospyphoning working effectively? With decent insulation, I cant see any reason for it not working, other than the flue jacket heater not being as effective as a wet back heater.
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby tonymtber » Tue Jun 07, 2011 6:03 pm

Yes the pipe is vertical up through the ceiling & then it continues along a slight incline towards the tank.
I think the main issue is just the distance that it needs to travel.

I'll have to climb up & have a feel of the insulation.
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby tonymtber » Wed Jun 08, 2011 8:43 am

Looks like I'll start off by adding more insulation & see how that goes.

Has anyone used bubble wrap as a pipe insulation? I've been told that it does a good job?
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby Gordon-Loomberah » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:00 am

tonymtber wrote:Has anyone used bubble wrap as a pipe insulation? I've been told that it does a good job?


It is probably worth testing it by pouring boiling water over it before the effort of wrapping the pipe...I suspect it would melt at the near-boiling temps expected from the flue heated water. I dont think you could really go past foil backed batts cut to size, wrapped around the pipe and duct taped in place.
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby tonymtber » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:05 am

OK, the foil back batts sound like the go. Is there any preference to having the foil on the inside or outside?
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby Gordon-Loomberah » Wed Jun 08, 2011 9:40 am

I'd be putting it out- makes for a neater job, and provides a surface for the tape to stick to. ;)
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby lad » Tue Sep 20, 2011 1:42 pm

Have heard that the black wattyl (bakers wood) will burn out traditional fireboxes more rapidly than varieties of gum.

I have just installed a Metal Dynamics branded (australian) wood fired boiler, the firebox is surrounded by water, limiting the surface temperature of the firebox to that of the surrounding water. Black wattyl is recommended for use in these boilers.

I have installed the radiators throughout the house, using 3 layer crimp piping, supplied by Australian Hydronic Supplies (cannot recommend them highly enough). I am not a plumber, just a DIY er. Was Quoted $10000 labor for the install by a plumber. I installed without assistance over a weekend.

System must be non-pressurised ie:open

I have added a simplified diagram below.

My pipes run external to the house, up to 25m. I have heat at all radiators (from cold start) in 15 minutes. My house is designed in 3 "pavillions" so this was the only logical form of heating, run 1 unit heat all.

As a bonus, I will be able to add in a heat exchanger to top up the winter hot water (evac tubes will cope on their own in summer) and I can extent the run of pipe to heat a hothouse and extend the growing season for the vegies, heat the brewing shed (happy yeast all year).

An excellent addition for those with a good supply of wood.
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby Cherokee Solar » Wed Sep 21, 2011 8:21 pm

Hey lad,

I've got a Metal Dynamics stove too. What a great unit - the Gourmet! and it's set up like yours.

Out of interest though, do your hot water solar panels operate on a drainback basis? The reason I ask is because it takes until about 7.30pm for the controller to shut the pump down from the header tank to the panles and I was wondering what your experience with this is?

Regards

Chris
Off grid solar + hot water. Heavily insulated + owner built flamezone house BAL-FZ. 300 mixed fruit trees + herbs + flowers + vegetables. Bees + heritage chickens. High up in the mountains north of Melbourne. http://ferngladefarm.blogspot.com.au/
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Re: wood burning stoves

Postby lad » Thu Sep 22, 2011 8:48 am

Hello Chris,

both my solar and boiler have their own grunfos pumps.

The solar (evac tubes) has its own controller and it circulates as the manifold's contents reach a high enough temp, but it also circulates back into the manifold as it gets too cool to prevent overnight freezing.

The boiler pump operates while the out bound hot water is over the temperature on the thermostat, I have set to 45 degrees. Allowing for transmission losses, this should mean a 20+ degree differential in radiator-room temp at startup. :ugeek:

Not sure on what you mean "on a drainback basis"

Lad
30 130 W Kyocera panels
Latronics LS7048 inverter
Outback mx 80 reg
12 Exide 4RP1800 batt
Apricius tube 315l H/W & gas boost
Kubota GL-9000 8.5KW diesel gen. 55amp batt. charger
Belvedere 5000 Hydronic heat, heat exch h/water boost

Grid DISCONNECTED
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